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#241
Re: The VB Glitchy Display Problem
Posted on: 2014/1/16 3:27
VB Gamer
Joined 2009/8/5
14 Posts
Long Time User (10 Years)
Do you happen to know what he used to scrape the film near the vias?
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#242
Re: The VB Glitchy Display Problem
Posted on: 2014/1/17 17:42
Nintendoid!
Joined 2013/3/25
217 Posts
Long Time User (6 Years)
Probably a flatblade screwdriver, just be careful about it, but keep in mind that film is rather thick. Just scrape some off, then try tinning the via, and scrape/tin until you can.
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#243
Re: The VB Glitchy Display Problem
Posted on: 2014/1/18 6:44
PVB Elite
Joined 2003/7/26
USA
1465 Posts
PVBCC EntryCoderContributorSpecial AchievementTop10 PosterHOTY09 EntryLong Time User (15 Years) App Coder20+ Game RatingsPVBCC 2013 Entry
Quote:

boom wrote:
Do you happen to know what he used to scrape the film near the vias?


I would say probably either a hobby knife or a fiberglass pencil.
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#244
Re: The VB Glitchy Display Problem
Posted on: 2014/2/6 9:19
PVB Elite
Joined 2003/7/25
USA
1507 Posts
PVBCC 1stCoderContributor#3 PosterHOTY09 EntryLong Time User (15 Years) App CoderPVBCC 2010 EntryPVBCC 2013 Entry
I finally got around to printing a replacement cable chunk... AND IT WORKED! The reason for this was a fellow forum member attempted the solder repair, but damaged the end of the cable beyond repair. Earlier in this thread I posted that I designed a near 1:1 copy of the cable, which is what I used for this. It certainly wasn't as easy as repairing it correctly in the first place... but wasn't too bad, and worked first try. Sorry, I didn't really take pictures along the way, but I think you can kinda get the idea from the pics. Here's a rundown of the process.

I printed the chunk of cable that I wanted (on Pyralux), etched it, and then tinned it (to keep the copper from oxidizing). I then cut the existing cable back behind the damaged area, exposed the copper, and then soldered that to the newly etched cable. This is where I almost messed up. I wasn't really paying attention and when I started to solder, I had my iron set to 700F (normal soldering temp). The VB cables shrivel and melt at high temperatures, so on the end I started on, I had to heat it and use tweezers and pull the individual traces back in line after a few of them began to curl inward. Then I bumped my soldering iron down just below 600F and finished soldering the cable without issue (the cable still kinda melts at 600F, but if you're quick, it's fine). Because of the lower temp, and trying to minimize the heat to the cable, the solder job doesn't look great... but it works, which is more imporant than looks. ;)

Then I verified continuity between the new and old half, and made sure there were no shorts (visibly, under the microscope, as well as electrically, with the multimeter). Once I was happy with that, I put a piece of Kapton tape on both sides of the cable to protect and reinforce the newly spliced cable. Then I put a small piece of carpet tape (very thin double-sided tape) on the display PCB and aligned then stuck the cable to it. Then it was just a matter of soldering the new half of cable to the display, which was easy (Pyralux is far less heat sensitive than the OEM cable). Once I did that, I again verified a good connection, and then wrapped that in a thin strip of Kapton tape to make sure it doesn't peel away from the display and cause stress on the solder joints. After that, it was just a matter of hooking it up and testing. :)

Yes, I could have printed an entire cable, but I chose to reuse the good part of the cable for several reasons. The part that goes in the LIF socket should really have a finish other than bare copper... and simply tinned with solder isn't very good for that either. It also needs a stiffener (that thin piece of plastic attached to the cable that makes it easy to insert/remove), which I probably would have taken from the original cable. Also, the cable at the display PCB end would have been upsidedown from how I wanted it, since my cable is single sided (bare copper would have been facing down, meaning the copper wouldn't be exposed for soldering, and it'd be easy to short out pins if you don't have it perfectly aligned).

We've also talked about getting new cables professionally made (here: http://imall.iteadstudio.com/open-pcb ... -fpc-10cm-x-10cm-max.html ). I sent my design to verify that they could manufacture it, and I didn't hear back, and shortly after, it changed to "Back Order", and has been for several months. Not sure if that means they're done offering that service, or if they will actually resume sometime in the future. Most of those places are probably still closed for Chinese New Year, but maybe we'll know more in a week or two.

DogP

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#245
Re: The VB Glitchy Display Problem
Posted on: 2014/2/6 16:02
VB Gamer
Joined 2010/10/19
France
37 Posts
10+ Game RatingsLong Time User (8 Years)
What about the Z-axys tape DogP ? Not tried yet ? I will get some in a few days/weeks, from a friend in Canada since i definitely can't find it here at a decent price...
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#246
Re: The VB Glitchy Display Problem
Posted on: 2014/2/6 16:53
PVB Elite
Joined 2003/7/25
USA
1507 Posts
PVBCC 1stCoderContributor#3 PosterHOTY09 EntryLong Time User (15 Years) App CoderPVBCC 2010 EntryPVBCC 2013 Entry
Quote:

Craby wrote:
What about the Z-axys tape DogP ? Not tried yet ? I will get some in a few days/weeks, from a friend in Canada since i definitely can't find it here at a decent price...

I have some of the Z-axis tape, but I don't have any virgin non-soldered displays laying around to try it on.

I think the trickiest part about that will be removing the cable without curling it... if you peel the cable, it tends to curl, which will make it harder to reinstall. If you can soften the old adhesive so the cable comes off easily, it should be pretty easy (of course either way, you'll need to clean the adhesive off both the cable and PCB).

I'm not sure about the best way to soften the adhesive though... heat could help (but not too much or you'll damage the cable), or maybe goof off (which doesn't damage the cable itself). I've removed a few cables, but never attempted to keep the cable in factory fresh form... so it may take some trial and error to get the technique just right.

DogP
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#247
Re: The VB Glitchy Display Problem
Posted on: 2014/2/14 22:25
VB Gamer
Joined 2014/1/17
12 Posts
Long Time User (5 Years)
Does the Japanese Virtual Boy suffer from the same problem with the crappy old glue not holding the ribbon cable?
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#248
Re: The VB Glitchy Display Problem
Posted on: 2014/2/15 0:11
PVB Elite
Joined 2009/12/30
Netherlands
545 Posts
Highscore Top10Highscore Top ScoreContributor10+ Game RatingsLong Time User (9 Years)
Quote:

Black&Red wrote:
Does the Japanese Virtual Boy suffer from the same problem with the crappy old glue not holding the ribbon cable?


Unfortunately, yes..... this is the bane of the VB, the glitchy display, but when you get them fixed, there is no problem at all and it is the best system ever ;).
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#249
Re: The VB Glitchy Display Problem
Posted on: 2014/2/15 21:46
PVB Elite
Joined 2013/6/17
Canada
1154 Posts
Top10 Poster10+ Game RatingsLong Time User (6 Years)
Even though mine is working fine, I'm tempted to buy a second "fixed display" one. Just in case the service becomes unavailable, it would suck to not have a permanently fixed one.
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#250
Re: The VB Glitchy Display Problem
Posted on: 2014/3/27 19:06
VB Gamer
Joined 2008/2/4
Greece
20 Posts
Long Time User (11 Years)
Time took its toll on my baby as well...In my case i had no picture just pitch black. I used the oven method and everything is fine now. One thing i found trouble was the screws. One of them that holds the cable couldnt be unscrewed. That little gap on the screw got destroyed by the screwdriver. I used a pliers kinda thing and i was able to unscrew it.Man that took me some time. I didnt even leave the cables for more than 1 minute and it worked. I had the oven on full power like 250 Celsius. Hope it stays "operational" for a long time i also taped the rubber thingies just to be sure.
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